Visiting Bornholm
Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, closer to Sweden and Poland than to Copenhagen — yet unmistakably Danish. Known as Denmark’s sunshine island, it has more sun hours than anywhere else in the country, a rugged granite coastline, medieval round churches, world-class smoked herring, and a relaxed pace of life. It rewards both a long weekend and a full week.
Overview
Bornholm sits roughly 200 km east of Copenhagen and about 40 km from the Swedish coast. It covers 588 km² and has a population of around 40,000. Despite its small size it packs in extraordinary variety: the dramatic granite cliffs and ruins of Hammershus in the north-west, the white sand beaches of Dueodde in the south, the medieval round churches scattered across the interior, and the distinctive smokehouse culture that has put Bornholm on the gastronomic map.
For expats living in Denmark, Bornholm makes an excellent long weekend escape that feels genuinely different from mainland Denmark. For tourists, it is often described as the most “un-Danish-looking” part of Denmark — and that is very much a compliment.
Getting there
By ferry
The main ferry operator is Bornholmslinjen, running between Copenhagen (Køge harbour) and Rønne, Bornholm’s main town. There are two options:
- Overnight ferry: Departs late evening, arrives early morning — ~7 hours. You sleep on board. Cabin prices vary from basic to comfortable. This is the classic Bornholm experience.
- Daytime fast ferry: Seasonal (summer only), roughly 3.5 hours. More expensive but keeps your day intact.
The overnight ferry fills up weeks in advance in July and August, especially if you are bringing a car. Book at bornholmslinjen.dk as soon as your plans are set.
There is also a ferry route from Ystad, Sweden (about 80 minutes). If you are coming from southern Sweden or driving from further afield, this can be a convenient option.
By plane
Bornholm Airport (RNN) is served by DAT (Danish Air Transport) from Copenhagen Airport (CPH). Flights take about 45 minutes and run year-round. This is the fastest way to get there and is often comparable in price to the ferry once you factor in travel time — though you lose the romantic overnight crossing experience.
Fly out, take the overnight ferry back — or vice versa. You save travel time while still enjoying the ferry experience once.
Getting around Bornholm
Bornholm has a reasonable bus network (BAT — Bornholms Amt Trafik), but a rental car or bicycle is strongly recommended. The island is famously cycling-friendly, with over 230 km of dedicated cycling paths. Rental cars and e-bikes are available at the airport and in Rønne.
Where to stay
Accommodation ranges from camping and summer cottages to hotels and B&Bs. Bornholm is a popular summer destination for Danes, so options book out quickly in peak season.
By area
- Rønne: Largest town, most amenities. Good base if you want to explore by car or bike. Hotels, hostels, and apartments available.
- Gudhjem: A charming harbour village on the north-east coast — arguably the most picturesque town on the island. Smaller hotels and B&Bs. Close to the Østerlars Round Church.
- Allinge: Northern coast, close to Hammershus. Popular with families and hikers.
- Dueodde: If beach is your priority, stay here or nearby. Summer cottages dominate. Very quiet off-season.
Many visitors rent a “sommerhus” (summer cottage) for a week. These are booked via feriehusudlejerne.dk or novasol.dk. A good cottage in July typically costs 5,000–12,000 DKK per week depending on size and location. Book months in advance.
Things to do & see
Hammershus
The largest medieval castle ruin in northern Europe. Perched dramatically on a granite cliff in the north-west corner of the island, it dates from the 13th century and is free to visit. Allow 1–2 hours and bring good shoes — the terrain is uneven. The views over the Baltic are extraordinary.
The round churches
Bornholm has four distinctive round churches — Østerlars, Nyker, Nylars, and Olsker — built in the 12th century. They are unique in Scandinavia: whitewashed, conical-roofed, and used historically as both places of worship and defensive refuges. Østerlars is the largest and most visited. All four are still active churches and open to visitors (small entry fee).
Hammeren & the north coast
The rugged northern tip of the island — all granite, heather, and dramatic sea views. Excellent hiking. Hammersø, a small freshwater lake just south of Hammershus, is particularly beautiful.
Dueodde beach
Denmark’s finest beach by many accounts — impossibly fine white sand and shallow, clear water. It stretches for kilometres along the southern tip. Busy in summer but never truly crowded by European standards.
Gudhjem & the smokehouse trail
The harbour area around Gudhjem is the heart of Bornholm’s smoked herring tradition. Walk between the old smokehouses (røgerier), watch fish being smoked over alder wood, and eat sol over Gudhjem (see Food section) on the harbour wall.
Cycling
Bornholm’s cycling infrastructure is world-class. The perimeter of the island is approximately 105 km — a popular multi-day cycle. Day routes connect all the major sights. Rent bikes in Rønne or at the airport.
Food & drink
Sol over Gudhjem
The island’s signature dish: smoked herring on rye bread, topped with a raw egg yolk, radishes, chives, and capers. “Sol over Gudhjem” means “sun over Gudhjem” — the egg yolk is the sun. You must eat this at least once. Order it at any smokehouse or café in Gudhjem or Allinge.
Smokehouses (Røgerier)
Bornholm has several traditional smokehouses still operating. The most famous are Hasle Røgeri and Hjorths Fabrik in Rønne (which is also a pottery museum). You can buy smoked fish to take away — excellent for picnics.
Local produce
Bornholm punches above its weight for local food. Look out for Bornholmer ice cream, local lamb, and produce from the island’s farms. The Bornholm Food Festival in late August draws visitors from across Scandinavia.
Restaurants
Gudhjem and Allinge have the highest concentration of good restaurants. Restaurant Kadeau (and its sister farm Kaadeauet) is internationally acclaimed — seasonal Bornholm produce elevated to fine dining. Book months in advance for summer. For more casual meals, the harbour cafés in Gudhjem and Svaneke are excellent.
Buy smoked fish directly from the smokehouses, pick up local rye bread from a bakery, and eat on the cliffs or beach. This is how Danes do it — and it is genuinely one of the best meals on the island.
Practical tips
Getting around
- By car: Most flexible. Petrol stations in Rønne, Nexø, and Allinge. Roads are small and quiet.
- By bike: Strongly recommended. The dedicated cycle paths are well-maintained and signposted. E-bikes make the hillier northern routes manageable.
- By bus: BAT buses connect the major towns and beaches. A Bornholmer day/multi-day pass is available and good value.
Costs
- Ferry (return, foot passenger): Approx. 500–900 DKK depending on season and cabin type.
- Flight (return): Approx. 800–1,600 DKK booked in advance.
- Accommodation: Budget hostels from ~250 DKK/night; mid-range hotels 900–1,500 DKK/night; summer cottages 5,000–12,000 DKK/week.
- Meals: Harbour café lunch ~120–180 DKK. Smokehouse takeaway ~80–120 DKK. Fine dining from ~600 DKK per person.
- Bike rental: ~150–250 DKK/day; e-bike ~300–400 DKK/day.
Language & payments
Danish is the local language, but English is spoken everywhere — Bornholm receives many international visitors. All shops and restaurants accept Danish cards and most accept MobilePay. International cards (Visa, Mastercard) are accepted everywhere. Cash is rarely needed.
Internet & connectivity
Mobile coverage is good across the island, including most beaches and coastal paths. 4G is standard; 5G is available in Rønne. Public Wi-Fi is available in most cafés and hotels. Your Danish SIM will work normally — Bornholm is Denmark.
When to visit
Bornholm has distinct seasons, each with its own character.
Late May to mid-September gives you the best balance of weather, open businesses, and manageable crowds. Early June and September are particularly good for avoiding peak-summer prices.
Questions and answers
Do I need a passport to visit Bornholm?
No — Bornholm is part of Denmark. EU/EEA citizens travelling within the Schengen area do not need a passport, only a national ID. Non-EU residents should carry their residence permit or passport as standard.
Can I bring my car on the ferry?
Yes. Car places on the overnight ferry must be booked in advance — they sell out quickly in summer. Expect to pay an additional 700–1,500 DKK each way depending on vehicle size and season.
Is Bornholm accessible for families with children?
Extremely so. The flat cycle paths, calm beaches, the adventure playground at Jungly (near Gudhjem), and the general pace of the island make it one of the best Danish destinations for families. Most summer cottages have gardens and outdoor space.
Is it worth visiting for just a weekend?
Yes — a three-night trip (take the overnight ferry Friday, return Sunday night) gives you two full days which is enough to cover the highlights: Hammershus, at least one round church, Dueodde beach, and the smokehouses. A week is better, but a long weekend is very worthwhile.
What is Bornholm like in winter?
Quiet, raw, and atmospheric. Many cafés and smaller attractions close from October to April. Rønne stays open year-round. Winter visitors tend to be Danes seeking a genuine off-season escape. Not for everyone — but those who go in winter often love it.
Sources
- Bornholmslinjen.dk — ferry timetables and bookings.
- Bornholm.info — official tourism website for the island.
- BAT.dk — Bornholm public bus network.